Muslin #2

My goals for muslin #2 were:

• make fitting changes to Simplicity 3790
• learn to use my binder attachment for my brother 2340 CV coverstitch machine

Fitting:

• I added a separate sleeve by overlaying the bodice from view D on view A.
• I added length for my dropped waist to the "flounce," as it is now called at my house, and also to the bodice.
• I brought in the neckline a little.

The shoulder was way to big. It just flopped off of me.

I cut out a 22. According to the measurements, it would be too small for me, yet I still needed to take 2 inches off of each shoulder. I went to both Sherril's and Debbie's blog and stared at some of their knit tops. In their knit tops, the shoulder seam sits on the shoulder point. I took a deep breath and did it.

I'm glad I did it. I don't think the style suits me, but the shoulders fit to beat the band! I really learned something. Apparently, the only part of me that is small is the distance from my neck to my shoulder. Humph.

My husband took the picture of me in the sleeveless version. I told him that if one takes a picture of something sewed for a sewing blog, it is customary in include the sewed garment. He said, "What? The flounce matters? Tell them it looks like every other flounce." Usually my son takes the pictures. He's more patient.

I ended up taking 3 inches of length off the flounce and four inches off the bell shaped sleeves at the wrist, tapering to the seamline above the elbow.

Thanks to Sherril and Debbie for including muslins and discussions of fitting issues. You have helped me push myself out of my comfort zone to try to tackle my fitting challenges. I am tempted to leave off pictures of myself in anything less that successful garments, but showing each other how we get to success is as worthwhile as sharing our success. Thanks, guys!

Binder Attachment:

The binder attachment was easy! I was so afraid that I'd have trouble getting it right. I have little patience with sewing machines. But it was easy! I had to fiddle a bit, but things got corrected simply and quickly. I like it! It looks so professional. I am also getting smoother with thread removal and such. My problems the first day were definitely thread related. For this project, I started with two new spools of thread, and I had no problems.

For Vanessa

In reference to the liturgical swags and jabots for church, Vanessa asked: what's the difference between a swag and jabot?



The swag is the half moon shape on top; there are two jabots, one on each side.

My design for church flips the jabots and merges them, so maybe it's not a jabot anymore. I don't know what else to call it, so I'm calling it a jabot.

I made one larger prototype for the two columns in front. I took it to church and Julie held it up and we guesstimated how long it should be to look right compared to the small ones. I forgot to take Julie's picture, which saddened me, but she'll be part of the sewing/pressing/hanging team, and I'll get pictures then.

We went to order the sage green fabric for ordinary time using my basic sample set from Thai Silks, but the color disappeared. On the silk charmeuse page, the 011-401 is now gray. I called, since some pictures were missing. Maybe the green fabric is now one of the colors without a picture?

That gray picture is a picture of the sage green! Good thing I called. I knew computer screens do a bad job of representing fabric color, but wow!

We are scheduling a sewing extravaganza after Epiphany. My little church can only do one big project at a time! Last year's Epiphany event was A Night in Bethlehem. This year is One Solitary Life.

Don't Panic. I Know About The Fabric.

Yes, I finished this, and I have a lot to say about it. I just don't feel like saying it now because......

I got a Brother 2340CV coverstitch machine for Christmas! And that prompted this:


I'm still somewhat shocked that it didn't transform me into a tall, skinny, cute girl, like on the pattern envelope. To understand that intellectually, to experience that repeatedly, still doesn't lessen the shock. It's Simplicity 3790.

I know the fabric is ghastly. I bought it about 14 years ago at Jackman Fabrics in Illinois. I intended to make an exercise top and -- brace yourself -- bike shorts. Remember those?

I bought that fabric out of desperation. It was before the internet, so it was the best of my bad choices. It was so bad, I never could make it. The fabric moved three times and has lived in three states. I have finally killed it.

I knew that this pattern would be so different for me that I should just make a muslin right out of the envelope. This fabric, with its coordinating bike shorts, was perfect. It's kind of like finding a vampire in your basement and realizing that you have a golden stake in your closet from Halloween 1994. Finally, a use for it!

I had two goals:

• make a muslin to determine needed changes to the pattern
• use my coverstitch machine and get good at it

The cover stitch machine:

I've had a tough time of it with the coverstitch machine, but I 've slowly narrowed it all down to thread problems. I read Belinda's tutorials on removing the fabric, but found the actual process of getting my fabric out of the machine torturous and complicated. I stuck with it, and can now thread the machine without the book and get the fabric back out without breaking my threads.

I discovered that putting the proper color thread on a bobbin was a bad idea. My thread kept catching and breaking. I also kept getting broken threads for unknown reasons, but when I changed to two new spools of thread (the newer kind without the slice to hold the end of your thread), I did 60 straight inches without a broken thread, so there's nothing wrong with the machine. I experimented with thread nets, those circle things that you put on the top, and bizarre methods of my own design, like putting a bobbin in a beer mug. I have no idea why the new spools worked, but they did.

I just hate to buy that many spools of colored thread to match a garment. It piles up, you know?

Fitting:

If I could think of a reason to just stand with my arms out like this all day, I think these sleeves suit me. However, I stand like this:



I was well aware that this style sleeve does not suit me, but I didn't want to make changes until I'd seen the whole thing on me. I made view A, but view D has sleeves, so I'll overlay the bodice of view D on view A to cut off the sleeve part and use the sleeve from view D. I'm starting to notice this cut-on sleeve a lot, so I'll have to get used to doing this!

The neck is just a tad bit too wide for me, so I'll bring that in.

Here's the part that needs the most work. I know, beyond a shadow of a doubt, that a piece of elastic will always migrate to my tilted waist. I will lengthen the bottom bodice piece to make the grain lines horizontal. I always have to alter the waist with skirts and pants; adding to the back rather than removing from the front will be a simple change. But adding to the back top bodice and making it match the front is making my head spin.

Next up: make the pattern changes and make muslin number two, which might be wearable. I already have the fabric for the real one, but I like the fabric so much, I don't want to mess it up.