I've picked up my sewing room and have decided to finish my black knit top before I vacuum and dust, tackle the mending pile, or seriously organize in there. I'd rather get some sewing in to motivate me.
As I unearthed the top in the excavation, I discovered some poorly written notes, which led me to some long-ago photos. My memory has been joggled.
I took the time to do a real basted fitting, and what a good idea! For a pattern that boasts of Today's Fit for older women, the bust point seemed to expect a much younger woman in there!
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I moved the bust point down 1 3/4 inches! This created a problem. If you think of the upper left circle as a hinge and slip down the bust point, it swings out the lower left circle out past the available seam allowance. I had already cut my fabric. Oh well, live and learn.
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Once that dart is sewn, it is obvious that the needed seam allowance does not exist. To compensate, the top got a bit slimmer down the side seams.
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For comparison, this is the original dart, which had plenty of seam allowance.
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So, first on my list of alterations: literally cut and swing out that bust dart and redraw the tissue.
2 comments:
I noticed the same thing about the darts in that pattern; the funny thing is that they are pictured too high on the envelope; I decided it was a (strange) design detail. But when I encountered the same too-high dart on the drapey neck t-shirt (can't recall the number), I decided that Vogue must be tampering with Sandra's designs. The dart on that one was waaaayyyy too high for this pushing 50 mom...and I thought I was the target audience.
So I'll be playing 'move that dart' next time I make those t's, too.
You sure are right about the bust points on this pattern. And here I thought it was just me!
The other thing - I find the way the cross-over "wraps" and cradles one boob just... well, just about obscene. I did have some success by moving the crossed over piece down a bit, but have to compensate under the boob on the opposite side by pinching out a bit of fabric so that it doesn't sag.
Keep writing. I love this blog!
Elaine
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