Tuesday, January 22, 2008

I Want To See Sandra Betzina's Boobs

I've picked up my sewing room and have decided to finish my black knit top before I vacuum and dust, tackle the mending pile, or seriously organize in there. I'd rather get some sewing in to motivate me.

As I unearthed the top in the excavation, I discovered some poorly written notes, which led me to some long-ago photos. My memory has been joggled.

I took the time to do a real basted fitting, and what a good idea! For a pattern that boasts of Today's Fit for older women, the bust point seemed to expect a much younger woman in there!

I moved the bust point down 1 3/4 inches! This created a problem. If you think of the upper left circle as a hinge and slip down the bust point, it swings out the lower left circle out past the available seam allowance. I had already cut my fabric. Oh well, live and learn.

Once that dart is sewn, it is obvious that the needed seam allowance does not exist. To compensate, the top got a bit slimmer down the side seams.


For comparison, this is the original dart, which had plenty of seam allowance.

So, first on my list of alterations: literally cut and swing out that bust dart and redraw the tissue.

2 comments:

Lisa Laree said...

I noticed the same thing about the darts in that pattern; the funny thing is that they are pictured too high on the envelope; I decided it was a (strange) design detail. But when I encountered the same too-high dart on the drapey neck t-shirt (can't recall the number), I decided that Vogue must be tampering with Sandra's designs. The dart on that one was waaaayyyy too high for this pushing 50 mom...and I thought I was the target audience.

So I'll be playing 'move that dart' next time I make those t's, too.

Anonymous said...

You sure are right about the bust points on this pattern. And here I thought it was just me!
The other thing - I find the way the cross-over "wraps" and cradles one boob just... well, just about obscene. I did have some success by moving the crossed over piece down a bit, but have to compensate under the boob on the opposite side by pinching out a bit of fabric so that it doesn't sag.
Keep writing. I love this blog!
Elaine